What do Kath and Kim and Wonder Woman have in common (other than all being fabulous in their own special way)? They all loved filming along Italy’s stupendous Amalfi Coast. From Sorrento to Salerno, this spectacularly craggy coastline has been THE cinematic location spot of choice.
Sun-drenched Positano even featured in everyone’s favourite 2003 American rom-com ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ while location scouts for the 2017 superhero movie ‘Wonder Woman’ couldn’t find anywhere to surpass its beauty.
Just 16 kms separates Sorrento from Positano which, theoretically, should take us under an hour. Driving these coastal cliff hangers, it’s closer to two and gazing across the bay as traffic slows to a crawl through narrow village streets, there’s scant room to avoid pedestrians strolling nonchalantly in front. I can see why arriving into Positano or Amalfi by boat – preferably one of those luxe super yachts moored below – is the way to go!
So, what’s it all about AmAlfi?
It’s about C-O-L-O-U-R! Jammed into a fold in the cliffs, Positano is an old town that was once part of the Medieval Amalfi maritime republic that’s been a popular resort since Roman times. It’s still a trading tour-de-force but now tiny shops line streets and laneways selling vibrant ceramics from Vietri, dazzling local works of art, chic resort clothes, souvenirs and Limoncello, the region’s famous lemon liqueur that’s invariably offered complimentary in a shot glass after meals.
Sturdy white houses march downhill towards the sea garlanded in purple bougainvillea. Cliff top bars and restaurants cling to aquatic vistas, their seats dressed with tangerine and cerise cushions offset by a dazzling blue sky.
It’s about ROCK ‘n ROLL. Positano’s cafes were where Mick Jagger and Keith Richards penned ‘Midnight Rambler’ whilst vacationing nearby. As fishing boats roll gently at anchor along the picturesque seafront, we hire a speed boat and cruise the shoreline where houses and hotels in both Positano and Amalfi appear to extrude from the rock itself.
We pass great caves carved into the rock face, faded ochre, terracotta and sand buildings bleached by a thousand summers, others resembling Crusader castles. Many have steps cut into the rock that leads to waterfront platforms for swimming access. We cheekily drop anchor between luxury craft and dive in for a taste of the luxe lifestyle albeit on a budget.
It’s about the SWEET SCENT of citrus groves. Perched high above the glittering sea, terraced gardens of orange and lemon groves line the craggy coastline their sweet bounty echoed by yellow and orange beach umbrellas that sprout along volcanic sandy beaches like colourful mushroom caps.
It’s also the SWEET TASTE of custard-filled donuts eaten by locals at Andrea Pansa cafe near the steps of the Amalfi Cathedral and the tangy taste of freshly-caught fish found on chalkboard menus all along this sweeping coast. i Magnifico!
5 Things to Consider
Why get caught in stressful traffic snarls when you can hire a boat and go off-shore. Ours cost 200 Euros + gas from www.boatsamalfi.it situated along the Amalfi seafront.
Sunbathing is a business along the Amalfi Coast so you pay for position and amenities.
Want to avoid the tourist crush in Positano? Facing the main beach, turn right and take the headland walk to a small, quiet cove and swim in pristine turquoise water.
From Positano to Salerno there are many beaches to stay that have regular ferry services between major places of interest. We stayed at Maiori, a sleepy beachfront town just a 15 minute boat ride from Amalfi but Minori and Cetara are other local options worth consideration. www.travelmar.it
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